July 16-17 Alert Bay

Thoughts on my visit to U’Mista cultural centre:

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The centre is in the shadow of the old, decaying St. Michael’s residential school, which somehow seems fitting. Everyone I spoke to for any reason in town, was always certain to ask or suggest that I visit the cultural centre; it is obviously a point of pride.

The main exhibit is an orientation film on potlatches and their importance to the Namgis people. The masks and artifacts are those that had been confiscated by the government in the 1920’s after a large Potlatch had been held at Village Island ( where we were on July ). A large number of artifacts were seized; some were sold by the local indian agent to a USA museum for a pittance and the remainder ended up in Canadian museums. These are the ones that have been returned and are now at the centre.

I eavesdropped on a young guide taking a group around and he was explaining the complex culture that even has not yet fully understood that is behind the masks, dances and who gets the right to use what type of mask, for what type of dance,etc. In the former times, men would organize marriages to specific clans just to get the right to use a certain mask.

Also in the centre is a simple exhibit consisting mainly of quotes from former residents about their time at the school – I found this particularly moving; trying to imagine having my children taken away and then treated like prisoners. As young as 8 and 9 they were put to work in the school or at an associated farm in between ‘lessons’ or during school holidays

. You can see in the photo’s where they have put up banners on the old school walls and some of the associated graffiti. A dark time in our history.

The tall totem is the largest totem in the world[ 173 feet!] , commemorating a well loved chief. It is located at the Nation's Big House, which is used for community meetings, potlaches,etc.

I tried to get some ice blocks yesterday but the store was out of all ice; they suggested I try the restaurant next door. The woman there said should could give me a bag of icecubes.. these were gathered up from the pub/bar and put into a garbage bag – she would not take anything for them.

I also tried to get some oil absorbent pads for the engine bilge since we have gone through quite a few due to small oil leak; when I asked the wharfinger where I could get some he said no problem and went to his stash and gave me a half dozen.

The last photo is one of the carvings that decorate a number of gazebos/rest areas set up along the town's board walk. I've been told that there are a number of world class carvers in Alert Bay; this is evident in the quality of the items at the centre's gift shop and those on display at town library,etc.

I will do a longer post with more photo's later. You can see the impact of the lost fishery, many abandoned and decaying buildings ( processing plants, net lofts,etc) that will never be used again. There are also a number of decaying fishing boats in the marina; they are functional but you can see the reluctance to put a lot of money into them with little chance for a return on the investment.