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Tuesday, July 15, 2014

July 15 - Docked at Alert Bay



We left Beaver Harbour ( adjacent to Port Hardy) a bit later hoping that fog will have cleared, but the day started out the same as the last 4 days ( shades of GroundHog Day  movie!). The phantom traffic being discovered on the radar picked up as we neared Port McNeil. Finally, as we closed in on Malcolm Island ( where Sointula is located) the sky’s cleared, some wind came up and we were able to sail for about 2 hours.



We had hoped to make it to Telegraph Cove, but the marina only had one potential slip available, currently occupied by a sailboat under repair. Alas, their repair was not complete and we had to divert to Alert Bay on Cormorant Island [ this is home of ‘Namgis first nation].

After showers and a walkabout, we went to have dinner at the consistently recommended restaurant. The wharfinger had told me “if you want fancy and don’t mind waiting….”. We waited about 1.5 hrs to get our meal!



The cultural centre was closed, but will open in the morning; I am looking forward to seeing it; there are artifacts that are quite unique; many are items that had been confiscated by the government in the 50’s and 60’s during “illegal” potlaches which have now been returned.

There is a coffee stall run by the Nation that says “ best coffee on the island’; I had a latte and it is the best I’ve had since leaving Calgary.

The photo’s attached include the old cemetery with the burial poles in various states of deterioration; that is the tradition, to leave the poles to return to the earth.

Observation:
When we were in bull harbour 2 nights ago, we were at a latitude that was more north than the tip of Vancouver Island. When you are in the gulf islands, talking about sailing up there seem like you going so far north. To then think about going as "far" north as Prince Rupert, is almost like adventuring to the end of civilization as we know it. To put this in perspective: the latitude of bull harbour is about the same as Okotoks, just south of Calgary and Prince Rupert is about as 'far north" as Edmonton.
Having said that, I bet no one "just south of Okotoks" was wearing a neck warmer, wool fingerless gloves, shirt, vest and jacket, wind pants and togue ( albeit no socks!) on July 14th.

 

Travel Plans: depends on the weather report in the morning: we may just relocate to Telegraph Cove and wait out the currently forecast gales in Johnstone straight tomorrow or wait here for another day.

Re photos: i don't get a chance to edit or review most of these, I'm just happy to get a connection and upload something! I promise to either upload some better ones or put together a collection of photos of the trip up on Flickr when I get a decent WiFi connection ( as opposed to doing this by cell phone...which is not ideal).



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